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Chemicals legislation (EU)_

Lab 217043 1920

From policy to practice

The CSS, adop­ted by the Euro­pean Com­mis­sion on 14 Octo­ber 2020, extends the EU Clas­si­fi­ca­tion, Labe­lling and Pac­ka­ging Regu­la­tion with sepa­ra­te hazard clas­ses for endo­cri­ne dis­rup­tors and for subs­tan­ces that are per­sis­tent, bio-accu­mu­la­ti­ve, toxic, mobi­le or very per­sis­tent. It also explo­res a gene­ric mix­tu­re-assess­ment fac­tor and an essen­tial-use con­cept that could res­trict cer­tain fra­gran­ce ingre­dients unless their broa­der socie­tal value is demonstrated.

Implications for fragrance

Modern per­fu­mery depends on a palet­te of roughly three thou­sand natu­ral and synthe­tic mole­cu­les. When the new hazard clas­ses ente­red EU law via Dele­ga­ted Regu­la­tion 2023707 (published 31 March 2023), fami­liar ingre­dients such as some nitro-musks and cer­tain woody notes requi­red fresh data or reformulation.

The essen­tial-use idea asks whether a subs­tan­ce is indis­pen­sa­ble for health, safety or the fun­ctio­ning of society. IFRA pro­vi­des evi­den­ce that fra­gran­ce sup­ports hygie­ne, emo­tio­nal well-being and cul­tu­ral expres­sion so that ingre­dients remain avai­la­ble whe­re they deli­ver clear benefits.

A pro­po­sed mix­tu­re-assess­ment fac­tor would obli­ge sup­pliers of scen­ted pro­ducts to show that com­bi­ned expo­su­re to mul­ti­ple subs­tan­ces remains within safe limits. The sec­tor already gene­ra­tes exten­si­ve expo­su­re data through the Research Ins­ti­tu­te for Fra­gran­ce Mate­rials and applies the IFRA Stan­dards, giving regu­la­tors a scien­ce-based refe­ren­ce point.

Through posi­tion papers, tech­ni­cal workshops and regu­lar dia­lo­gue with the Euro­pean Com­mis­sion and the Euro­pean Che­mi­cals Agency, IFRA seeks pro­por­tio­na­te rules that pro­tect peo­ple and the envi­ron­ment whi­le allo­wing Europe’s tra­di­tion of scent inno­va­tion to continue.

Green Deal recommendations and advocacy tools

To sup­port cons­truc­ti­ve policy­ma­king, IFRA has published clear policy recom­men­da­tions on the Green Deal and the Che­mi­cals Stra­tegy for Sus­tai­na­bi­lity. The­se docu­ments pro­po­se a path for­ward that com­bi­nes safety, envi­ron­men­tal per­for­man­ce and innovation.

We also com­mis­sio­ned a busi­ness impact study from Ricar­do Energy & Envi­ron­ment to assess how the pro­po­sed chan­ges could affect the fra­gran­ce value chain. The fin­dings show the impor­tan­ce of buil­ding fle­xi­bi­lity into policy design and of avoi­ding unin­ten­ded res­tric­tions on ingre­dients that con­tri­bu­te to hygie­ne, well-being and eco­no­mic value.

Sources for further reading

  • Euro­pean Com­mis­sion, Che­mi­cals Stra­tegy for Sus­tai­na­bi­lity – Towards a Toxic-Free Envi­ron­ment COM(2020) 667, 14 Octo­ber 2020.
  • Com­mis­sion Dele­ga­ted Regu­la­tion (EU) 2023707 amen­ding Regu­la­tion (EC) 12722008, adop­ted 19 Decem­ber 2022; OJ publi­ca­tion 31 March 2023.
  • Euro­pean Com­mis­sion, Essen­tial-use con­cept – Ques­tions and Ans­wers”, 22 April 2024.
  • The Inter­na­tio­nal Fra­gran­ce Asso­cia­tion, IFRA Stan­dards, 51st Amendment